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A Kenyan Dream

24 Jan

Pole Pole ndio mwendo – Kenyan Proverb

 

“Slowly slowly is speed” could not explain one particular Kenyan trait in any better better way…take your time, there’s no need to rush.

After almost 4 years ( and the beginning of this blog) I finally had the opportunity to travel back to a special place where I left a little peace of my heart. The timing was a little strange on this occasion, while most of Europe was fighting with horrible snow storms and really cold temperatures I boarded my plane to Mombasa the evening of the 28th December. How surreal, when 9 hours later we stepped off the plane to scorching 35C, sun and blue skies! I could not have wished for more, and already when walking across the airfield I somehow felt like I was back…home, in a certain way.

Mombasa airport is not particularly big, hence why one knows a few tricks to get through the controls a little quicker – that doesn’t however mean you’ll be out quickly! Remember Pole Pole? It is a recurring theme throughout this journey and somehow forces you ( at first it is a little frustrating, but a few days you discover yourself doing exactly the same thing). 1 1/2 hours after my arrival I finally made it through customs “ What is in your suitcase? Clothing, just for you???” my driver was expecting me and we undertook the one journey I so vividly remember from my last visit, for being really dark & scary. What a difference the daylight makes!

120km northeast of Mombasa means approximately 1 1/2 hours drive, depending on the traffic, the markets, the people, the animals and whatever else may be crossing the road.

I have been dreaming about the African colors for too many years, and here they were: bright red sand on the sides of the road, the rich green Baobabs as far as your eyes can see, the bright blue sky in contrast, the colorful traditional dresses of the women, the reddish water when crossing the bridge by Kalifi, the crazy motifs on the local buses….and it goes on and on and on. I have to admit, the warmer climate was definitely helping as well.

Malindi hasn’t changed too much over the last years, a new Post Office ( there used to be a bus stop there), a few newly built houses but still same ol’ messy traffic, bikes, tuc-tucs. Wonderful. After a few hours sleep it was definitely “time to face the music” and meet old and new friends, explore the wonderful Kenyan coast and make the most of this wonderful holiday. So, here we were : 4 Blondes on a mission :) The wonderful beaches in Che Shale, Watamu, the emerging islands of Mayungo and even Lamu…nothing was safe this time!

Che Shale    

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Watamu

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Mayungo

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Just a few impressions of one stunning day after the other, and yes… I had to put up with being the “pale” one for most of the holiday. Anyways, the most amazing part is probably our trip to Lamu, an island approx 30 minutes flight from Malindi which could not be any more different and beautiful at the same time. The beaches are absolutely endless… But, first things comes first.

After a wonderful New Year’s Eve including the traditional jump into the swimming pool the Four Blondes were on their way to Lamu. After a short flight we landed at Manda Air Strip and were picked up to be taken to our accommodation for the next two nights – the Peponi Hotel in Shale, located right on Lamu island and approx 30 minutes by boat from the air strip. Lamu is wonderful, and since 2001 been classified as a world heritage site to preserve the oldest inhabited Swahili settlement south of the Sahara. Shale, were the Peponi is located, is 2 miles away from Lamu and has one of the most wonderful beaches I have ever seen. The narrow streets are characterized by coral-decorated high-built houses and is definitely more touristic than Lamu. Two days were definitely not enough to fully enjoy this wonderful place, but we managed to squeeze a few things in: an extensive walk to Lamu, an aperitivo on the Floating Bar in front of Shale, the negotiations with the local boat owners ( with the most random names ever…), the party in Manda ( across to the other island) with some really random people but the coolest music ever, countless drinks on the veranda of the Peponi…

Shale

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Lamu

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Let me share a few more random impressions with you that characterized this wonderful holiday from the first to the last day. A big thank you goes to Barbara, Bene & Vale for being part of the Blondies Group and making every single moment memorable and unique. And of course to all the other special characters I had the honour of meeting again or for the first time: Toti & Veru ( and the little ones), Tata Patty who is like a second mom to me, Claudio who never appears to either sleep or eat but is adorable at all times, the girls young at heart who taught us that life never gets boring, Freddie and his infinite imagination, Jaguaretti who always knows how to treat the ladies ( with a freshly made chocolate souffle’!), Pippo and his wonderful melodies, and the list goes on and on and on. Thank you all.

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We will be back!

Tine

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Sunny Curacao

21 Jun

Curacao is one of the three ABC islands, better known as the Netherland Antilles, located an easy 9 hours (!) direct flight from Amsterdam and just above the coastline of Venezuela. About 6 weeks ago I finally followed my inner need for sun, sea & fun and I jetted off to Willemstad. For about two years my friend Wolfi has been living and working there and considering this project is coming to and end soon I really did not have any further excuses not to go.

After a crazy o’clock wake-up in the morning, an almost missed flight in Heathrow and 9 1/2 very long hours later I finally arrived to fabulous 32C and sun…and it was only half past three in the afternoon!! After a very quick check in to the hotel we were almost immediately on our way to the first of many Happy Hours on the beach. Tiredness suddenly did not really matter anymore and Mari & Wolfi looked after me properly with beer and rum & coke until I could not really stand anymore. I’ve got to say though…that first moment when my bare feet touched the sand and hopped into the sea…I was one happy girl!!! Good that that was only the start to a fantastic holiday! The first couple of days were dedicated to a gentle approach to the sun ( I had a slight green shade on me after 2 beach-less years…) and various trips here and there with my favourite tour guides. Among other things there were BBQ’s near the beach, the best Sushi I ever had and more Happy Hours. No reason to complain really :)

 

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The beach & the view from my balcony at the Marriott Beach Resort & Emerald Casino

 

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View from the lobby…not too shabby

Day 4 of the holiday and things are getting slightly more “interesting”. Wolfi had booked us on a Jeep Safari to explore the island off the beaten track from the slightly rougher coastline all the way to the Christoffel National Park. I am not entirely sure how that old Land Rover coped with the 7 of us and all of that up & down, but it once again shows that the good old mechanics should probably get more trust than we like to give them…

 

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Really rough coastline, and me…still really really white…

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The Vodoo Cave

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A local artist made these with items washed up by the sea

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View from the top in Christoffel National Park & our Jeep

 

Well…this is the point where the whole thing gets a little messed-up. The top of the mountain was the last stop of the tour and shortly after taking these last two pics I climbed back down towards the car, which really wasn’t a tough thing considering there was a path and all. I am not entirely sure how and what happened, but about 2m from the car I tripped/ slipped and fell rather badly on the stones. Next thing I know is that my left leg is bleeding rather profusely and after a very prompt reaction from Wolfi and another passenger I am sitting in the front seat of the car and they are trying to do whatever possible with the first aid kit. Unfortunately I am really bad with wounds & bleeding ( = I pass out), so I could not even look at it all…it did not hurt at that point, but they both seemed very preoccupied. That was also the moment when I heard the word “stitches” for the first time. Great…this was going to be an interesting day!

In no time we were shooting down the hill to get back to civilization and take me to hospital. No point in getting into the details ( Eeeeeeek!), but a good 2 hours and 7 stitches later we were on our way to Wolfi’s flat. Obviously one needs to prioritize things…after that ordeal I really needed a beer and a cigarette!!!!

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Gross. Anyways, back to more pleasant things. In the end of the day I could have let this ruin my holidays in some way…well, there certainly wasn’t going to be any more swimming, snorkeling, crazy unka-unka ( = dancing) or other walking-related things, but I couldn’t let that happen. Of course, there was rest and nursing involved, but there were things to do, places to be, beers to be drunk…

A few days later we had an early start and about 8 of us joined a boat trip to Klein Curacao. This little strip of land is located about 2 boat hours away and is definitely worth a visit. I would absolutely not recommend doing this trip on a day when there is a) very strong wind & b) the boat is going against it. Within an hour 2 /3 of the passengers where hanging overboard fighting with real bad seasickness…forget the pills, even they don’t work! The relief was great when we finally arrived…and what a little strip of paradise it is!!!

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The old light tower is abandoned and literally falling into the pieces, but what a beauty when one is approaching…

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Wolfi & Thomas jumped off the boat and swam ahead to “reserve” one of the sun-thingies. Essential in this place!

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As you can see there are a few relicts around…but really not much more. And here’s me recovering in the shade, sometimes it’s needed! :)

The return to Curacao mainland was nothing compared to the morning, even our most fierce sea-sick people were fine and between beers & songs we were back in no time. Ah yes, of course…just in time for HAPPY HOUR! Once again :)

 

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My favourite past time – Sudoku ( yes…) & sunset on the beach! No swimming permitted, but that was certainly not holding me back from soaking in as much sun as possible. The walking was more like stumbling, but it was certainly feasible.

 

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Stunning Sunset.

The ten days were over way too quickly, as it mostly happens when one is having fun. Agreed that I could definitely have avoided the whole falling-hospital-stitches thing, but all in all that did not completely spoil it. Everyone was absolutely adorable and I was looked after so well! Particularly by my private nurses Mari & Wolfi :) Danki ( = Papiamentu for Thank you) from the bottom of my heart for making this holiday truly memorable, and a big Danki goes to the Hilton gang as well…those BBQ’s were absolutely brilliant!!!

Bon Nochi!

Tine